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Basic Application and Choice of Stains

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There are many different types of stain on the woodworking market. Which one you choose will be governed partly by personal preference and partly by the type of lumber you’ve used. And of course what your project is. Some projects demand to be painted, while others are much more beautiful with the grain enhanced by stain or varnish.

Finishing your project with a stain or other finish is one of the most satisfying tasks, because it is the last thing to be done is relatively easy and enhances your project greatly. All the hours of hard labor have now come to fruition. But if you are not careful, disaster can strike at the last minute.

Finishes are usually chosen for their ease of application and fast drying time. If you choose a finish that takes hours to dry, it’s possible that dust or bugs may settle on the surface while it is still sticky and mar the finish. To minimize this risk, apply the finish or stain in an insect and dust-free environment. But you’ll still need plenty of fresh air due to possible fumes, so keep the windows open.

The five most common finishes are varnish and polyurethane, oil, shellac, lacquer and water-based finishes. A stain is a finish containing colored pigment that alters the natural color of the wood. Oils and varnish bring up the grain and enhance the natural color of the wood. Out of them all, varnish gives the most protection for the wood surface. It also takes the longest to dry, but layers can be built up to give a good protection.

Oil soaks into the wood and is ideal for external use. It is easy to apply; gives fair protection and simply using more over a scratch will often make it disappear. Some oils don’t cure but leave a sticky surface on the wood. They should be avoided. Linseed and Tung oil are both good oils to use.

Shellac is widely used because it is fast drying and different colors are available. It will probably need to be thinned with denatured alcohol before it can be brushed on. You need to work fast in applying shellac and maintain a wet edge. It’s not quite as durable as varnish and breaks down over time, so don’t use that old tin that’s been sitting in the shed for years, even if it is well-sealed.

Lacquer dries so fast it is mostly sprayed on. The dry dust can be explosive and the fumes are toxic, so watch your step with it.

Sanding between coats is a necessary part of applying finishes and stains. Using the ‘wet sanding’ technique will reduce the amount of dust that could spoil your finish. Special sanding paper is required for this. It’s a good idea to practice your technique on a scrap to make sure you get it right, before tackling your project.

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